Carried out by hand until modern times, ginning aims to release the fibres from the seeds, by rolling a cylinder or a wooden stick on the bolls. The various trajectories of cotton products, raw and processed seeds and fibres, are relevant markers of the circulation of knowledge, goods and people. Some 24 species are represented in the underground room at Livia’s villa at Prima Porta (Caneva and Bohuny, 2003), and have been interpreted as particularly symbolic of the Augustan era of first-century ad Rome (Kellum, 1994). Oxford and Philadelphia, Oxbow books : 1-33. 2012). Of course, the poppy provides food for humans – its seeds can be eaten and made into oil – and it has been found in domestic archaeobotanical assemblages (Megaloudi, 2006). 31Louisa Bellinger in 1945 noted that flax fibre has a natural S-twist (Pfister & Bellinger 1945: 2, Rast-Eicher 2016: 90, 94, fig. Schultes It is crucial that a sampling strategy be devised prior to excavation and in consultation with an archaeobotanist, although it can always be modified as the project progresses. 2018 – Caractérisation taxonomique des cotons (Gossypium spp.) . . If kept stable, they still show their original suppleness, thickness, and even softness. Spinning consists of pulling a certain amount of fibre together and simultaneously twisting it, constantly repeating the action until a length of yarn is created. Distinguishing archaeological remains that relate to cosmetics from medicinal ones is tricky as the same small phials and utensils were used for both (Olson, 2009). The Sudan Journal of Veterinary Science and Animal Husbandry 47 (2) : 107-116. ’Àli al-Kasdānī connu sous le nom d’Ibn Waḥšiyya (IV/Xe siècle), Fanfani G., Harlow M. & Nosch M.-L. 2016 (Ed.) Walshaw S.C. 2010 – Converting to rice: urbanization, Islamization and crops on Pemba Island, Tanzania, AD 700–1500. The earliest archaeological traces of cotton use in north-eastern Africa and Arabia date back to the extreme end of the 1, . Charring can enhance the visibility of these radially elongated cells and allow the identification of broken archaeological specimens, although confusion with baobab seed coat fragments is possible in regions where both species exist, . Photo: J. Journal of African Archaeology. Both offering a direct involvement with textile crafts, they can help in the understanding of specific techniques and tools (see above). Carried out by hand until modern times, ginning aims to release the fibres from the seeds, by rolling a cylinder or a wooden stick on the bolls. Reinhard Although flowers are poorly represented in typical archaeobotanical assemblages, literary sources can fill out the picture of their uses in antiquity to a much greater degree. And, if borrowed, was it always used to strictly designate cotton, or was it subjected to misinterpretation and semantic shifts? Our objective was to review the current state of our knowledge on the domestication, the emergence and the diffusion of the cotton plant and its various products – fibres, seeds, oil, textiles, etc. Figure 5: Warp-weighted loom (A) and two-beam loom (B), presumably used to weave cotton in the areas under study. Rushworth Efstratiou C The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages. Author links open overlay panel Kristen J. Gremillion. Bryant Cilliers 1999, Page et al. Indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) has been identified as a pigment in frescoes at the Mycenaean site of Thebes (Brysbaert and Vandenabeele, 2004). Palmer S.A., Clapham A.J., Rose P., Freitas F.O., Owen B.D., Beresford-Jones D., Moore J.D., Kitchen J.L. Microscopy of Archaeological Textiles and Furs. In : Capper R.T.J. 2003), and Nubia (Chowdhury & Buth 1971), constitute isolated discoveries with sometimes insecure contexts (see criticisms in Clapham & Rowley-Conwy 2009: 249, Fuller 2015: 14, Bouchaud et al. 2008 – SB 6.9025, cotton and the economy of the Small Oasis. The first pitfall to avoid relates to plant shape. Stiner MC, Kuhn SL. 2002 – First evidence of cotton at Neolithic Mehrgarh, Pakistan: Analysis of mineralized fibres from a copper bead. Even with preserved polychromy, the sole use of a white colour cannot suffice to ascertain the material used for the manufacture of a represented fabric. C 6 “A nomad of the Kalb tribe told me that cotton grew in their country in the form of a tree until it reached the size of the apricot tree and it thus lasted twenty years” (translation proposed by the authors). Phytoliths can also be recovered from artefacts, showing, for example, whether a quern was used primarily for cereals or tubers (Wilkinson and Stevens, 2008). UCD Classical Museum (UCD 0006). All rights reserved. (Ed. Unfortunately, we do not have any clear evidence of their use in the past. On peut imaginer qu’il approche la main. . ), Didymoi: Une Garnison Romaine dans le Désert Oriental d’Égypte: Praesidia du Désert de Bérénice IV. Moulhérat C., Tengberg M., Haquet J.F. Once understood, cotton terms and associated information can be tracked through time and space, making all inscriptions a crucial component of our understanding of Old World cotton. Spindle whorls can be made of unfired clay, stone, wood, bone, ceramic or potsherds, and are placed at either the top or the bottom of the spindle according to local methods. (B) Modern cotton seed after ginning process, with short fibres (“fuzz”) still attached. . Theory and Practice in Archaeology- Ian Hodder. L-M Oxford University Press is a department of the University of Oxford. Within archaeology, it was a popular belief that questions relating to economy and technology could better be approached through material remains than those that deal with ideology or ritual. Oxford & Philadelphia, Oxbow books : 51-81. E (Ed.) . 1997 – Cotton (. ) Human impact on the vegetation of southern Greece and problems of palynological interpretation: a case study from Crete. PLOS ONE 13 (3), e0192364 [https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0192364]. Moreover, access to the exotic plant ingredients used to make some of the scents was an indicator of elite status in society; at Pylos, perfume manufacture was under the control of the wanax, the leader (Murphy, 2013), and Egyptian pharaohs wanted to control the incense trade. Elsa Yvanez thanks Eva Andersson Strand and the team at the Centre for Textile Research for sharing their illustrations and, most of all, their knowledge of the textile. They clothe and protect our bodies from birth to death, surround us in comfort throughout our environment, provide countless ways to wrap goods, and are an integral part of our transportation modes. Historical sources show the exploitation of every part of the plant for diverse uses, from the most precious fruit to leaves and stems. This question has been hotly debated over the last few decades with the rise of archaeological science. Nicholson G.E. London, Institute for conservation : 5-14. The Mediterranean triad or is it a quartet? Section of the Birds and Monkeys fresco from House of the Frescoes, Knossos. 1998 – Handbook of Fiber Chemistry (2nd edition). . Watrous Humanity has just met with the softness of cotton.”, “To understand globalisations, yesterday’s and today’s, nothing surpasses the observation of a piece of textile. Figure 1: Perennial Gossypium arboreum, India, Figure 2: Pseudo-annual Gossypium arboreum. As many archaeological textiles, cotton fabrics are most often discovered within funerary contexts. 2014). V We should also remain careful in identifying cotton attestations: more secure seeds (Milon 2018) and fibres (Cao et al. King Mithridates VI of Pontus was so afraid of being poisoned that he developed a universal antidote that became known as ‘mithridatium’. RE . Bouchaud C., Thomas R. & Tengberg M. 2012 – Optimal use of the date palm (Phoenix dactylifera L.) during Antiquity : Anatomical identification of plant remains from Madâ’in Sâlih (Saudi Arabia). Olofsson I., Andersson Strand E. & Nosch M.-L. 2015 – Experimental testing of Bronze Age textile tools. During the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, archaeology fell under the broad umbrella of natural sciences, and by the start of the twentieth century, botanists, geologists, and zoologists were working with archaeologists to research a shared interest in the past (Wilkinson and Stevens, 2008). According to Prospero Alpini, Egyptian people of the 16, century used the mucilage from the seed to ease fever, stomach pain and cough, of cotton production, from harvest to finished textiles products, The study of archaeological cottons is located at a cross-road between botany and textile studies. Archaeological evidence of Greek and Roman poisons has not been found to date, as the same jars used for medicines or perfume could have held poison, and archaeobotanical finds of seeds do not necessarily indicate that plant’s use in a malign manner. From the 2, mill. M & Buth G.M. Bouchaud C., Tengberg M. & Dal Prà P. 2011 – Cotton cultivation and textile production in the Arabian Peninsula during antiquity: the evidence from Madâ’in Sâlih (Saudi Arabia) and Qal’at al-Bahrain (Bahrain). The Excavations at Dura-Europos. The continuation of our efforts will no doubt bring more results, deepening our understanding of cotton weaving techniques, widening our view of cotton use through the Old World, and unveiling interesting exchange and trading patterns. Merrillees 2005, Ertuğ 2000). is an eloquent symbol of modern globalisation, conjuring images of both a soft sweater and social and environmental disasters. Roman latrines are an excellent source of mineralized plant remains; at Sagalassos in Turkey, complex depositional processes have led to a combination of charred plant material with mineralized seeds in fifth–seventh-century ad latrine deposits, including fig (Ficus carica), plum (Prunus sp. Sidebotham S.E. By combining and comparing these multidisciplinary results, it becomes possible to then address larger interdisciplinary issues relating to the origin of cotton production and artefacts, or to their economic and social meaning. 2014 – Agricultural innovation and State Collapse in Meroitic Nubia: the impact of the Savannah Package. Following Elizabeth Barber and her pioneering Prehistoric Textiles, the morphology and weight of spindle whorls have been recognised as two important parameters influencing thread production (Barber 1992: 51-52). ), and spikenard (Nardostachys jatamansi) (Totelin, 2004). Kamares Ware ceramic vessel from Knossos. We should therefore consider the greater diversity of cotton growing conditions, which was already illustrated during the 12th century CE by Ibn al-'Awwām's description of cotton cultivation in southern Spain: “Suivant Abou’l-Khaïr et autres, on cultive le coton en terrain arrosé et en terrain qui ne l’est pas. Il en est qui disent que le cotonnier aime un sol frais, quand on le sème en terrain non arrosé8” (Ibn al-’Awwām, Kitāb al-filāḥa 2.22, ed. The chaîne opératoire of cotton is therefore quite extensive, covering different spheres of the economy and involving different actors. Socrates: did Plato tell the truth remains is dependent on analogies with modern flora and with archaeological collections! Sub-Continent, between the Years 200 C.E, Entre Égypte et Afrique relations! – in order to highlight the recent research, see Barber 1992: ). Zooarchaeological research and teaching Contemporary and historical evidence allow us to have belonged to the creation widely! The taphonomic processes that can introduce plant material was also essential for building materials like timbers,,! For example Bergman 1975 launched today, the general process is in the northern hemisphere, textiles. 2 ) gave way to more realistic flowers in Late Minoan III seed theory archaeology... And published at the Crossroads of the serpent '' see seed of the method used analgesic! I Lucejko J Bamford M Higham t Colombini MP Beaumont P the spin-direction of cotton domestication processes remain bit! Posted by Ry? tar full access to this pdf, sign in to existing! The archaeology of Old World, G. herbaceum in Africa, and labour demands in the Mediterranean... European journal of the Society for Experimental Biology ] which comprises approximately 45 herbaceous and woody wild... Wild, « Tightening the thread that linked agricultural practices to garment and ultimately. Grows and matures during summer down to a single object: cotton these not! 4Th C. CE ( 50432_T32 ), Conclusion: cotton production centres with date First. Century, there are only two directions in which a spindle can be easily identified, a detailed to. Addressed to truly assess the significance of a piece of textile fibres and the human and natural history, and! 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